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If
it's not from Spain, it's not real sherry
By Tim Pawsey
In Oscar Wilde's classic play, The Importance of Being Earnest,
Algernon has the butler pour him a glass of sherry as he prepares
to embark on a weekend of "Bunburying." How very refined.
Indeed, how British.
Algernon is still out there, happily Bunburying on the stages
of the world and knocking back the odd schooner of Bristol Cream,
no doubt. But sherry is shaking its staid and crusty image and
coming into its own as a wine to be explored and enjoyed. (At
least the British respect sherry's integrity, unlike major Canadian
wine manufacturers, who continue to produce cheap-and cheaper
tasting-imitations. Thank you Brights, Andres et al. for continuing
to make a mockery of Canada's reputation as a serious wine producer.)
Just like Port and Champagne, the real McCoy comes solely from
the place of its origin. The history of Jerez, in southern Spain,
dates from centuries before the Moorish invasions. Earliest records
suggest that vines were first brought to the region by the Phoenicians.
In town recently to promote sherry's cause was "Mr. Sherry"
himself-a.k.a. C‚sar Salda¤a, general manager of the
Regulatory Council for Sherry Wines-to lead a lively and well-attended
tasting hosted by the Vancouver American Wine Society. Not only
did Salda¤a offer a lively history and exploration of seven
varied sherries, but he also offered a few interesting food pairings,
matched with good tastes.
Sherry's variety and complexity is too often overlooked-as is
its suitability as a food wine.
A chilled Fino or Amontillado is the perfect aperitif but you
can also enjoy them with chilled seafood (especially prawns),
milder cheeses or simpler salads. Fino can work even with artichoke,
which is always a challenge. Manzanilla plays nicely off sushi
(but go easy on the wasabi) while Amontillado, which usually has
a distinct nuttiness, is fine with Manchego-and superb with a
rich consomm‚.
The real fun starts with the sweeter (darker) styles, particularly
when you get to heavy hitters like Pedro Xim‚nez: deep mahogany
in the glass, it's made with sun-dried grapes to give a pronounced
raisin, dried-fruit aroma and rich, mouth-filling, smooth taste.
A no brainer for mature blue cheese, it's also a delight with
vanilla ice cream, or tarts like custard egg or caramelized apple.
Don't worry about trying to pronounce it. Just head over to Liberty
Wines and ask for a half bottle of PX-specifically, Alvear Cream
of Cream (Montilla), 375 ml. $13.99.
If dry is your style, you can't go wrong with Gonzalez Byass
Tio Pepe (Extra Dry Palomino Fino), good value from the LDB at
$22.95. For something a little different, however, check out the
suitably named Gonzalez Byass Nutty Solera Oloroso (sweetness
3) also on LDB shelves, $15.95.
Salda¤a's tasting (of seven distinct varieties) truly
puts the fun back into sherry, which wouldn't be hard to recreate
with friends at home. On the other hand, if there's a sherry lover
on your gift list, the arrival on local private wine store shelves
of half bottles of well-crafted Emilio Lustau is good news. Look
for Don Pilar Amontillado, Oloroso Anada Aranda, Palo Cortado
and Rare Cream Reserva Superior. How about a gift pack?
Interestingly, England's enduring love affair with sherry is
thought to have begun at the famous sea battle of Cadiz, when
Sir Francis Drake not only sank every ship in sight but-perhaps
more importantly-managed to save some 2,900 barrels of sherry,
at least some of which made it back to England. From that point
on, sherry (or in Falstaff's case, "sack") became a
truly popular beverage-and a sea-going staple in the Royal Navy.
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